If you are curious about any of the products we sell and install feel free to click around and learn more. If you have a question not answered here please give us a call and we’ll be happy to help!
The federal tax credit for solar-powered products was a financial incentive provided by the U.S. government to encourage the use of renewable energy. The credit allowed homeowners to deduct 30% of the total cost of purchase and installation from their federal taxes. This meant homeowners could save money while making an environmentally friendly choice.
You needed your receipt for purchase and installation, a Manufacturer’s certification (see below), and IRS Form 5695. On this form, in line 1: Qualified solar electric property costs, you’ll enter the cost of the product and installation. This credit expired on 12/31/25.
Existing homes and new construction qualified; as well as primary residences and secondary residences, such as vacation homes. Rental properties did not qualify.
No, there was no cap for residential photovoltaic systems placed into service after December 31, 2008 and before December 31, 2025.
A tax deduction is subtracted from income before total tax liability is computed. On the other hand, a tax credit is subtracted directly from the total tax due or added to the expected tax refund.
Click here to download the 2025 Solatube® Manufacturer Certification Statement.
Click here to download the 2024 Solatube® Manufacturer Certification Statement.
Click here to download the 2023 Solatube® Manufacturer Certification Statement.
Click here to download the 2022 Solatube® Manufacturer Certification Statement.
Click here to download the 2021 Solatube® Manufacturer Certification Statement.
Click here to download the 2020 Solatube® Manufacturer Certification Statement.
Click here to download the 2019 Solatube® Manufacturer Certification Statement.
Click here to download the 2018 Solatube® Manufacturer Certification Statement.
Click here to download the 2017 Solatube® Manufacturer Certification Statement.
Click here to download the 2016 Solatube® Manufacturer Certification Statement.
Click here to download the 2015 Solatube® Manufacturer Certification Statement.
Click here to download the 2014 Solatube® Manufacturer Certification Statement.
Click here to download the 2013 Solatube® Manufacturer Certification Statement.
Click here to download the 2012 Solatube® Manufacturer Certification Statement.
Many local utilities provide financial incentives for energy-efficient products. To find out if rebates or incentives are available in your area, visit the ENERGY STAR rebate finder at www.energystar.gov.
For additional information please visit your state energy office website for specific state tax information or go to www.dsireusa.org the database of State Incentives for Renewables and Efficiency.
*Disclaimer: Solatube® International and The Solar Guys are not tax advisors. Taxpayers claiming a tax credit should consult a tax professional with any questions. Solatube® International and The Solar Guys are not responsible or liable for the taxpayer’s ability to receive tax credits. This document is not intended to constitute legal or tax advice. More comprehensive information will be made available by the IRS.
The user maintains the full and complete responsibility to comply with all codes, laws and regulations applicable to the safe and proper use, handling and installation of the product and should consult with a professional for all construction and design-related questions. The information contained herein is believed to be accurate as of the time of preparation. However, Solatube® International and The Solar Guys make no warranty concerning the accuracy of this information.
Garage fans actually save more energy that you might think! Garage fans work by bringing cooler air into the garage from the outside using vents. When this air is brought into the garage, there is no need to use additional fans or air conditioning systems that utilize an abundance of energy.
At the same time, a garage fan eliminates heat-build up that can be extremely difficult to dissipate and often overworks cooling systems causing them to perform inefficiently.
Finally, a garage fan saves energy by giving you complete control of your system. Whether you need to save energy or save on your electric bill, you always have the option to turn the system down or off, depending on your needs and preferences. Contact us today and we’ll show you how it works!
Absolutely! Not to worry – your garage fan will stay quieter than most air conditioning systems and other fan options thanks to its Patented Quiet Hush Mount Design and insulated ducting. You can also decrease the volume simply by adjusting the thermostat to turn the system down. Our team will happily show you how to make these adjustments to ensure that the operation stays quiet even as your system ages.
If your garage fan does ever begin making loud noises or becomes loud enough to be disruptive, this is a red flag and you should address this quickly. Excessively loud noise usually indicates something is wrong with the fan or that it needs a thorough cleaning. Regardless, give us a call and we’ll get it working like new!
Garage fans are extremely easy to clean. Unlike other fans, they do not have as many small parts that can catch and collect dust and debris. They are also made with an easily removable and dishwasher-safe intake grill for quick, easy cleaning. No need to spend hours cleaning your fan, we like to keep it simple!
Be sure to clean your fan on a regular basis, as dust build-up can inhibit performance and cause issues in the long run. This is especially true if you create a lot of dust, smoke, or debris within your garage due to your daily activities. Usually a good, thorough cleaning at the beginning of each season is enough to keep everything in working order. If you need help, we’re just a phone call away!
You sure can! It’s easy to change the temperature in your garage using the fan system and an adjustable thermostat. Before our team leaves your property, we will show you exactly how to work your system, so you can benefit from the best possible performance. There are also online guides available, so you will be able to reference them when needed as well as provide them to future owners when you sell your property.
These systems are very user-friendly and shouldn’t require much maintenance at all. However, if you do have a problem, our team is happy to come pay you a visit. We’ll evaluate the issue and demo the system’s capabilities again if necessary.
We offer different sized fan options to fit in garages of any size. Whether you want a bigger fan to completely eliminate the hot air in your garage or you need something on the smaller size, we can accommodate your needs. We can also assist you in selecting an installation location for optimal performance.
Remember, these fans are designed to be extremely efficient, so size is not a prime factor when it comes to productivity. This simple installation also doesn’t require much cutting or destruction – so it’s a no-mess, no-fuss endeavor! Contact our specialists today to find out what fits your garage best.
Our fans are Fire Rated and made up of UL Listed Components. All fans and accessories we offer come built with high-quality materials specifically designed to withstand hazardous conditions. Instances with extremely hazardous conditions may cause damage, but not to worry! Our team can help repair any damage and get your system back in working order quickly.
Most attics perform best with a combination of air sealing first (closing leaks around penetrations and the attic hatch) and then adding enough insulation to hit an appropriate R-value for your climate zone. Blown-in insulation is common because it covers evenly and tops off older insulation well. The “right” recommendation depends on whether you’re insulating the attic floor (typical) or the roofline (less common), plus ventilation and moisture conditions.
Cost depends on your attic size, access, current insulation, and whether air sealing or removal is needed. Many homeowners see installed pricing quoted by the square foot, and totals can vary widely by region and material choice. A contractor quote is the fastest way to get a real number because details like attic height, ductwork, and hatch sealing matter.
Common signs include hot/cold rooms, noticeable drafts, big temperature swings between floors, and higher-than-expected heating/cooling costs. In the attic, if insulation looks thin, patchy, or compressed, performance drops. A quick inspection (or an energy audit) can confirm whether you need a top-off, air sealing, or both.
This is really a moisture-control question, and the answer depends on your climate and what layers already exist. In many attic upgrades, installers use unfaced material so you don’t accidentally create a “double vapor barrier” that can trap moisture. When in doubt, it’s worth having a pro verify what’s already in your ceiling assembly before adding more.
It usually helps most when your attic is under-insulated and leaky, because the attic is a major pathway for heat gain/loss. Better insulation can reduce temperature swings, improve HVAC runtime, and make upstairs rooms feel less extreme in summer and winter. Pairing insulation with air sealing is typically where homeowners notice the biggest comfort jump.
Yes. Radiant barrier and blown-in insulation do different jobs. A radiant barrier helps reflect radiant heat (mainly summer attic heat), while traditional insulation (like blown-in fiberglass/cellulose) slows conductive heat flow year-round. Most homes get the best comfort and efficiency when radiant barrier is paired with proper attic insulation and air sealing.
Blown-in insulation (also called loose-fill) is fiberglass or cellulose that’s installed with a blower to create an even, continuous blanket, most commonly across an attic floor. Homeowners like it because it fills gaps and irregular areas better than many older batt installs. It’s a popular upgrade when rooms feel uneven, the home is drafty, or energy bills are rising.
If you have hot/cold rooms, drafty ceilings, or high heating and cooling bills, blown-in insulation is often one of the best “comfort per dollar” upgrades, especially in an under-insulated attic. It helps create a more continuous thermal blanket, which can reduce HVAC run time and improve indoor comfort.
Cellulose is typically made from recycled paper treated for fire resistance, while fiberglass is made from spun glass fibers. Both can perform well when installed to the right depth and density, but the “best” choice usually comes down to your goals (budget, sound control, air-leak reduction) and the specific area being insulated.
The right R-value depends on your climate zone and what’s already in your attic. A good installer will confirm your target R-value and then blow to the depth needed to hit it evenly, without blocking soffit vents or burying critical attic ventilation paths. (This is also why air sealing first can be such a big deal.)
Blown-in insulation is one of those projects that looks simple, but the results and safety depend on getting a lot of details right, including air sealing first, proper depth and coverage, and keeping ventilation paths clear. DIY can also get risky fast in attics because of heat, low clearance, exposed wiring, and the chance of stepping through the ceiling. A professional crew can handle baffles, recessed light clearances, hatch sealing, and tricky areas so you do not end up with uneven coverage or hidden problems. For most homeowners, hiring a pro is the safer, cleaner way to get the performance you are paying for.
Some materials can settle over time if they’re not installed to the right depth/density, which is why proper installation (and hitting the marked depth) matters. Moisture problems usually come from roof leaks, bathroom fan venting issues, or poor attic ventilation, so you want those fixed before insulating. Blown-in insulation isn’t a “mold maker,” but it can hide problems if the attic isn’t dry and well-vented.
Often, yes, especially if the batts are in decent shape and not blocking airflow. The bigger goal is an even, continuous blanket with good air sealing below it, so you don’t end up insulating “around” big leaks. When in doubt, an insulation pro can spot compression, gaps, or mis-installed batts that should be fixed first.
Not always. If the existing insulation is dry, clean, and not moldy or contaminated, many homeowners simply “top off” with blown-in insulation to reach the right depth. If there’s rodent damage, moisture issues, or you’re doing major air sealing and repairs, removal can make sense.
At The Solar Guys, our garage door insulation service is a comfort-focused upgrade built around sealing first, then insulating, then verifying the door still operates safely. We start with a quick inspection to identify air leaks, worn or damaged seals, and any door operation issues because weatherstripping and air sealing are a big part of improving comfort and efficiency, especially in attached garages.
Next, we repair or replace as needed the side and top weatherstripping and the bottom seal, then install a garage door insulation system that fits each door section cleanly for even coverage without interfering with hinges, rollers, or track clearance. After insulation is installed, we perform an operational and safety check. Insulation may add weight, which can affect door balance and put extra strain on components if the door is not properly tuned.
If balance correction is needed, we handle it the safe way. High-tension spring work can be hazardous, so we do not treat spring adjustments like a casual add-on. We either address it with the appropriate qualified help or recommend the proper next step so the door remains safe and reliable.
For hot climates, the best garage door insulation is radiant barrier insulation. This type of insulation reflects the hot air back outside, keeping it cooler inside the garage. It also helps to reduce noise and keep energy costs down. Additionally, radiant barrier insulation is easy to install and comes in a variety of sizes and thicknesses.
Radiant barrier cost depends on attic size, installation method (roof rafters vs. attic floor), and how difficult the attic is to access. Pricing can also change if the job includes air sealing, ventilation improvements, or removing old materials. The most accurate number comes from an in-person quote because attic layouts vary a lot from house to house.
The “best” radiant barrier is the one that’s installed correctly for your attic, meaning it faces an air gap, stays as clean as possible, and doesn’t interfere with ventilation. Many homeowners prefer radiant barrier installed under the roof deck/rafters because performance tends to hold up better over time. A quality installer will help match the product and placement to your climate, attic design, and comfort goals.
Yes. Radiant barriers need to face an air space to reflect radiant heat effectively. If the reflective surface is pressed tight against another material, you lose much of the radiant benefit because heat transfers by conduction instead. That “air gap requirement” is one of the biggest reasons professional installation details matter.
Usually, no. Radiant barriers generally aren’t rated like mass insulation (fiberglass, cellulose, etc.) because they don’t work primarily by resisting conductive heat flow. Instead, performance relates to reflectivity/emissivity and proper installation next to an air space. That’s why it’s commonly used with attic insulation, not instead of it.
You can, but it has to be done carefully so you don’t crush the insulation (which reduces its effectiveness) and so moisture risk is considered in your climate. Over-the-insulation installs can also be tricky if you have storage decking, lots of wiring, or HVAC equipment in the way. Many homeowners choose a rafter/roof-deck installation to avoid contact with insulation and keep the reflective surface cleaner.
It can contribute to moisture issues if installed incorrectly or if the attic already has humidity/ventilation problems. Some sources note condensation risk in certain conditions (especially when temperature differences are extreme), and dust/moisture can reduce performance. The best protection is: good attic ventilation, correct placement (with air space), and choosing the right material type for your climate.
Radiant barrier insulation is usually “worth it” when your attic gets extremely hot, your ductwork is in the attic, and you’re trying to lower cooling load in warm climates. In cooler regions, it may deliver smaller benefits, so the payback depends on your energy costs and attic layout. A quick rule of thumb: if your top problem is summer heat gain, it’s often a smart add-on; if your problem is winter heat loss, air sealing + attic R-value typically come first.
It can work well in the right setup, especially in hot, sunny climates where attics overheat and AC runs hard. The U.S. Department of Energy notes radiant barriers are primarily used to reduce summer heat gain and cooling costs (results vary by home and climate). Think of it as a “heat mirror” for your attic rather than a replacement for insulation.
Knowing when to replace a skylight is important because the condition of the unit has a direct effect on comfort, energy efficiency, and the overall health of your roof system. Homeowners often begin noticing small signs such as minor dripping during heavy rain, fogging between panes, or slight discoloration around the drywall. These changes seem harmless at first, but they are strong indicators that the skylight seals are weakening. In Florida, constant sun exposure and sudden temperature swings accelerate the breakdown of older skylights. Glass expands and contracts daily, caulking becomes brittle, and flashing begins to lift or detach from the roof surface. Once this process starts, the skylight becomes more vulnerable to leaks during seasonal storms.
Age is another major factor. Most skylights last between fifteen and twenty years. Even high quality products begin to lose thermal performance during this period. A twenty year old skylight may still look intact, but the glazing can allow more heat to pass into the home. You may notice rooms beneath the skylight feel warmer, or your air conditioning seems to run longer than usual. These subtle changes often signal that the skylight has lost its insulating efficiency.
Visible signs should never be ignored. Cracking, warping, yellowing, or moisture inside the panes show that the glazing and seals have broken down. Water stains around the shaft or ceiling are a more urgent warning. A damaged skylight can direct water straight into the attic or insulation, and hidden moisture can lead to mold growth. If the roof is nearing replacement age, the timing is ideal to install a new skylight along with the new roofing system. This approach creates a clean seal and avoids disturbing the roof again later. A professional inspection is the best way to determine whether replacement is necessary, but if any of these issues are present, a new skylight is usually the safest long term option.
Skylight replacement and skylight retrofitting achieve the same goal, but the methods and project scope are different. A full replacement is the more flexible option because it allows changes to the size, shape, or location of the skylight. In this scenario, the old unit is removed and the existing curb or opening may be rebuilt. The installer can enlarge or reduce the opening, change the skylight type, or adjust its placement to improve lighting. Full replacements also make sense if the roof structure around the skylight has been damaged by years of water intrusion. In those cases, repairing the framing and installing a new curb ensures that the skylight and roof function together as one watertight system.
Retrofitting follows a more precise approach. The new skylight is built to fit the existing opening or curb without altering the structure. Homeowners often choose this option when the framing is still in good condition but the unit itself is outdated, leaking, or inefficient. Retrofitting is less intrusive, and because the opening remains the same, the surrounding ceiling materials usually remain untouched. This helps keep the project simple and more budget friendly. A retrofit is also ideal when the skylight is being replaced during a roof replacement, since the roofer can integrate the new flashing with the new roof covering.
The decision between replacement and retrofitting depends on factors such as the age of the skylight, the condition of the curb, the presence of leaks, and the homeowner’s goals. If the structure is compromised or a different design is desired, full replacement is the better path. If the goal is to update the skylight while preserving the existing opening, retrofitting provides a clean and efficient solution. A professional evaluation helps confirm which method suits the home and avoids long term issues related to water intrusion or improper fit. Both approaches offer reliable results when matched to the right conditions.
Replacing a skylight during a roof replacement is one of the most practical decisions a homeowner can make. The roof and skylight work together as a single system, and repairing one without addressing the other often leads to repeated labor or future disruptions. When the roof is removed, the installer has full access to the skylight, flashing, underlayment, and curb. This makes it easier to inspect the entire assembly and identify problems that may not be visible from inside the home. Installing a new skylight at the same time allows the flashing to integrate smoothly with the new roofing materials, reducing the risk of leaks that often originate from mismatched or aging components.
Many older skylights have sealants, gaskets, and glazing that no longer match the performance of modern roofing materials. If the skylight is approaching fifteen to twenty years of age, replacing it along with the roof prevents the need to reopen the roof in a few years. This avoids disturbing the new shingles or tiles and helps extend the working life of both systems. Homeowners in Florida benefit even more from this approach because storms, sudden downpours, and wind driven rain put persistent pressure on skylight seals. A new roof paired with a new skylight creates a consistent barrier that performs well during the rainy season and helps protect the attic and interior spaces.
There is also a financial benefit. Labor costs are typically lower when both projects are completed together because the crew is already mobilized, and the tear off and disposal processes overlap. This often reduces the total project cost compared to completing each job separately. Most homeowners also prefer the convenience of a single project timeline rather than managing two separate installations. Overall, replacing your skylight during a roof replacement ensures a smooth installation, a stronger weather seal, and a longer lasting result. It is the most efficient way to protect your investment and prevent future maintenance concerns.
Most skylight replacements can be completed in a single day, although the exact timeline depends on the skylight type, the condition of the existing opening, and whether the project involves structural repairs. A straightforward retrofit, where the new skylight matches the current opening, often takes a few hours. The installer removes the old unit, cleans and inspects the curb, installs the new skylight, and applies the appropriate flashing. This process goes smoothly when the roof deck and framing are in good condition and no interior finish work is required.
Full replacements may require more time. If the opening needs to be adjusted or the curb must be rebuilt, the installer will need additional hours to complete the framing and prepare the surface. Projects that involve changing from a fixed skylight to a venting model, or switching to a different design, may also take longer. The interior may need new trim or drywall adjustments if the opening size changes. Weather is another factor. In Florida, afternoon rain is common, so crews often begin early to ensure the home is protected before weather shifts.
Homeowners often appreciate that skylight replacement is far less disruptive than larger remodeling projects. The majority of work occurs on the roof, and professional installers keep interior access to a minimum. Rooms beneath the skylight can usually remain in use throughout the day, although the installer may lay protective coverings to catch dust or debris. Cleanup is straightforward, and once the installation is complete, the new skylight is immediately functional.
What matters most is not the speed but the precision of the installation. Proper flashing, correct fastening, and careful sealing protect the home from long term moisture intrusion. A reputable installer will take the time to verify every part of the assembly. In most cases, you can expect same day completion and a weather tight finish that performs reliably for decades.
Modern skylights are substantially more energy efficient than older models because the technology behind daylighting products has advanced in several important ways. Older skylights often relied on single pane acrylic or basic tempered glass. These materials allowed heat to pass through easily and provided little insulation. As a result, rooms beneath the skylight would heat up quickly during the day, and the cooling system had to work harder to maintain a comfortable temperature. Over time, these older units would yellow or crack under the Florida sun, further reducing performance.
Today’s skylights use insulated glazing that includes double or triple panes of glass, sealed chambers filled with inert gas, and specialty coatings that control heat transfer. Low E coatings help reflect infrared heat while still allowing natural light to enter. This combination reduces indoor temperature spikes and provides more consistent comfort. UV protection in modern glazing also slows fading of furniture, flooring, and cabinetry. These improvements help lower daily cooling costs and create a more balanced indoor environment.
Modern skylights also feature stronger seals and improved frame designs. Manufacturers use advanced gaskets and multi layered weather barriers that help prevent air infiltration. This reduces drafts and keeps conditioned air inside the home. Impact rated models are available for Florida homeowners who want stronger resistance to storm debris. These units meet state and local building codes and provide a higher level of protection that older skylights cannot match.
Ventilating skylights have also become more efficient. Solar powered openers allow warm air to escape naturally, reducing humidity and improving home ventilation. This process supports healthier indoor air quality and lessens the burden on mechanical cooling systems.
When combined with proper installation, modern skylights offer a meaningful improvement in energy performance. Homeowners gain better lighting, lower cooling costs, and stronger protection against weather. Replacing an aging skylight with a modern unit is a practical way to upgrade comfort and efficiency without extensive renovation.
The Solar Star® Attic Fan features a brushless DC motor that reduces noise and lightweight, polymeric fan blades that minimize vibration. The result is whisper-quiet operation.
The Solar Star® Attic Fan is designed to work in the harshest of climates, from the scorching southwestern regions of Arizona and Texas to the frigid northern areas of Canada and Alaska. Featuring a Venturi design for maximum airflow capacity and durable polymeric fan blades for high performance and reliability, the Solar Star Attic Fan equalizes interior and exterior temperatures to safeguard your home against the extremes of summer and winter.
There are no batteries on Solar Star® Attic Fans that will store energy. Thus, they only run when daylight is available on the solar panel.
Attics are meant to be ventilated year-round, and the Solar Star® Attic Fan is designed to run whenever daylight strikes the solar panel. During the winter, proper ventilation helps prevent condensation from forming within the attic. If moisture does accumulate, it could cause significant heat loss from the home if the attic insulation gets wet. A cool, dry attic is the best solution for keeping heat inside during the winter. If your attic is properly insulated and moisture buildup is not a concern, but cold temperatures are, then the optional Solar Star Thermal Switch may be the solution for you.
While the Solar Star Attic Fan does not have an on/off switch, the optional Solar Star Thermal Switch can be added to turn off the fan when the temperature in the attic is cooler than 65° F (18° C). It will also turn on the fan when the temperature in the attic is warmer than 85° F (29° C), giving you greater control over the operation of your Solar Star Attic Fan.
The Solar Star® Attic Fan runs best when the solar panel is in direct sunlight. Although the unit will continue to operate in the shade (provided the sky is bright), it will run at a reduced speed. On a roof that is heavily shaded for most of the day, a Solar Star Roof Mount 1200 Add-on Panel is recommended. The extra panel can be placed up to 15 ft (4.5 m) away from the main roof unit—if possible, in an area that has all-day sun exposure—to boost performance.
Visit the Solar Star section of our website for more information about Solar Star products.
The 30% federal tax credit expired as of 12/31/25.
Yes, the Solar Electric NightLight does work during a full moon.
The sophisticated Dusk to Dawn Daylight Sensor allows the LED emitters to turn on only when it is dark outside (no daylight coming down the tube).
In extreme overcast or dark, stormy conditions, there may not be enough daylight transferred down the tube.This may cause the Solar Electric NightLight to turn-on during daylight hours.
The Solar Electric NightLight is an integrated solar-powered nightlight that offers soft, ambient light that helps homeowners navigate their home from sundown to sun up.
The Solar Electric NightLight has an integrated solar panel that collects and generates energy from the daylight coming down the Solatube system, recharging the two (2) onboard AA NiMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) rechargeable batteries.The Solar Electric NightLight has a sophisticated Dusk-to-Dawn Sensor that recognizes when there is not enough daylight (waning hours of the day) and automatically turns the NightLight on.The NightLight includes two LED emitters requiring no bulb replacement over the life of the product.
Under ideal conditions, the NightLight should provide gentle illumination throughout the dark hours of the night until the early morning hours when enough daylight is available and collected by the Solatube system.
8-10 Lumens, which is about the same as a traditional night light.
No, the color and brightness of the unit is factory set.
Yes, however some may vary in visual appearance.
Yes, we currently have a special upgrade program available to past customers. Please contact us for more info.
No, it is activated by a light sensor and cannot be adjusted.
To answer this question, we first need to understand what wavelengths of radiation are emitted through a Solatube® Daylighting System. Solatube Daylighting Systems utilize two technologies to eliminate ultraviolet (UV) radiation and reduce heat from infrared (IR) wavelengths entering the building interior.
The first technology is related to the domes. Solatube acrylic outer domes have special UV inhibitors designed to block 100% of UVB (280 to 315 nanometers), 100% UVC (100 to 280 nanometers) and 98.5% UVA (315 to 400 nanometers) rays.
The second technology is related to the tubing. Spectralight® Infinity Tubing transmits the visible spectrum of light (400 to 760 nanometers). A minimal amount of the infrared spectrum of light (above 760 nanometers) is transmitted by the Spectralight Infinity Tubing.
With this information in mind, the following subjects can be addressed.
Plant Growth
In conjunction with the above information, there are a few factors to consider when determining if a Solatube Daylighting System will have an effect on plant growth. The first factor is how much UV, if any, the particular plant will need for proper growth. Second, the size of the daylighting system used may impact how much light the plant can obtain. It is also important to point out that the Solatube Daylighting System removes a majority of the infrared wavelengths, which substantially reduces any heat-related stress problems that may occur with indoor plants.
Typically plant growth occurs between 400 and 1000 nanometers. Based on this data, it would be safe to say that, in general, a Solatube Daylighting System will have a positive effect on plant growth depending on a particular plant’s UV requirements.
Solar Heat Gain
With the infrared-blocking capabilities of the Spectralight Infinity Tubing, removing greater than 50% of the heat from the IR wavelengths (>900 nanometers) of the sun with every reflection on the tube surface, the Solar Heat Gain of Solatube products is greatly reduced. This, in turn, will reduce the air conditioning load requirement for the space being daylit. These technologies allow Solatube Daylighting Systems to provide the highest light output performance with minimal thermal impact.
UV Effect on Skin and Vitamin D Production
The different UV wavelengths affect skin in the following ways.
UVA – The lowest energy range, UVA causes little burning ordinarily, but it penetrates deeply, beyond the surface layer of the skin. Over long periods of exposure, UVA causes wrinkling and premature aging of the skin.
UVB – More energetic, the chief burning and tanning rays which area major factor in producing skin cancer, although not penetrating beyond the skin.
UVC – The most energetic, intensely burning rays. Fortunately, UVC is mostly absorbed by the ozone layer, which essentially serves as “sunscreen” for the Earth.
Vitamin D production occurs when a compound within the skin reacts with UV rays between the 270-300 nanometers wavelengths, with peak synthesis between 295-297 nanometers. Based on this information the Solatube Daylighting Systems do not transfer the required UV for Vitamin D synthesis because it will block all of the UVB and UVC rays, which fall between the 100-315 nanometer range.
Note: The UV information in this article is specific to Solatube Daylighting Systems. Other TDD products may not provide the same performance standards.
The Solatube® Daylighting System features passive daylighting technology that does not rely on moving parts, making it virtually maintenance-free. All assemblies (dome, flashing, tubing, diffuser) have seals to prevent bug and dirt infiltration. In addition, the dome and flashing are designed to eliminate debris build-up. Unlike traditional skylights, that need periodic cleaning and inspection, the Solatube Daylighting System does not require ongoing maintenance.
For Residential applications
The light coverage area varies among our Solatube® Daylighting System models. Keep in mind different light levels are required for different tasks. As a result, the approximate coverage areas are shown below for ambient light levels.
These estimated lighting areas are based upon an average 6 ft (1.82 m) tube length and 8 ft (2.4 m) ceiling height with the dome in direct sunlight.
Light output will vary depending on the intensity of the sun. For example, there will be more natural daylight at midday than in the early morning or evening. Light output may also decrease as the tube length increases beyond the recommended distances.
*applies only to daylighting portion of the system
For Commercial applications
Please consult a Solatube Commercial Representative as acceptable illuminated areas will vary greatly due to ceiling heights and space uses. Our commercial experts are well-versed in application-specific Solatube design and light analysis for both new and retrofit projects.
Homeowners are always looking for ways to improve their living areas and want to bring a freshness to rooms that may seem to be lacking a special something. A starting point is also making sure your home or rooms are well lit for yourself and your guests. Sometimes all a room may need is a glimmer of natural light and a perfect option for this is by installing skylights throughout the home.
You may ask though since the skylights are bringing in a lot of natural light, will they make the rooms they’re located in hot?
No. Even though natural light carries heat in the form of infrared radiation, the technology used in your skylight will determine the effects of the incoming light into your home. Skylights are Energy star rated and don’t allow heat or UV rays into the home which will save your furniture from fading.
There are a few things to consider when weighing in on how your skylight will perform in your home:
Our Certified and Expert Installation Consultants will help you identify these factors and give you the information you need to help you decide what skylight improvements or upgrades are the best fit for your home.
Yes. As long as there is space for the tube run, a Solatube® Daylighting System can run from the roof to lower floors. See product pages for maximum recommended tube lengths. In addition, a chase or enclosure is usually built around the tubing for added protection.
Yes, the Solatube® Daylight Dimmer controls the amount of natural light entering a room. Utilizing a patented butterfly baffle design and a convenient wall-mounted switch, it allows the user to adjust light levels simply and easily anywhere between 100% and 2% daylight. Designed for both residential and commercial applications, it’s perfect for bedrooms, family rooms, offices, classrooms and conference rooms. The Daylight Dimmer is available for the Solatube Daylighting System 160 DS and 290 DS, the Solatube Smart LED™ System, and the Solatube SolaMaster® 330 DS and 750 DS. The Daylight Dimmer can also be integrated with an overall lighting control system. For more details, click here for the Daylight Dimmer Integration Guide.
At the roof level, there are two main optical technologies used in the domes of Solatube® Daylighting Systems: LightTracker™ and Raybender® 3000. The LightTracker Reflector captures low-angle sunlight, specifically in early morning, late day and winter, that would otherwise pass through the dome, and redirects it into the tube. In this way, the system collects the maximum amount of light possible throughout the day and year. This, in turn, yields greater light output in the interior space.
Raybender 3000 Technology is a patented daylight-capturing Fresnel lens integrated into the dome that provides consistent daylighting throughout the day. It accomplishes this by redirecting low-angle sunlight to increase early morning, late afternoon and winter performance. It also rejects overpowering midday sunlight, especially in summer, to reduce glare and heat offering a more consistent daylighting experience.
Traditional skylights have their place as do tubular daylighting devices (TDDs). There are a few key benefits of the Solatube® Daylighting System, however, that allow our TDDs to perform better than skylights. Some of these include:
For more details, read “The Skylight Alternative” article in the residential Info Center of our website.
From sunup to sundown, the Solatube® Daylighting System captures the sun’s rays using an optical dome mounted on the roof. The light is then transferred downward through proprietary Spectralight® Infinity, the world’s most reflective tubing. Designed for minimal light loss, it also easily maneuvers around obstructions with no structural changes required. When the light reaches the interior, it is delivered evenly throughout the space through specially designed Solatube diffusers and/or Decorative Fixtures.
No. To transfer the most light possible to your interior, Solatube®, Inc. International uses a 1-to-1 product design that matches the dome to the diffuser. There is no “Y” tubing adapter available for Solatube Daylighting Systems that connects two diffusers to one dome.
The reflection of light is extremely predictable. When light strikes a surface, it is either absorbed or reflected. Total reflectance indicates the percentage of light that is reflected, regardless of the direction it travels after leaving the surface. A surface’s total reflectance can consist of both specular and diffuse components. To illustrate this, imagine a ray of light as a tight bundle of smaller, individual rays, all traveling parallel to each other. In accordance with the Law of Reflection, rays that strike a smooth surface will reflect and remain in a concentrated bundle. This is called specular reflection and represents a “mirror-like” reflection of light. On the other hand, rays that strike a rough, or diffuse, surface will reflect and scatter in many directions through diffuse reflection.
While a diffuse surface can have a high total reflectance, the reflected light is scattered, which prevents it from being transmitted in a consistent and tightly-controlled fashion. For tubular daylighting devices (TDDs), a high specular reflectance is imperative so that light can be efficiently transferred through the system. A tubing system with a diffuse reflectance component should be avoided since that would result in light being scattered and lost back out through the top of the system.
The Spectralight® Infinity Tubing used in Solatube® Daylighting Systems is the most reflective material used in TDDs. With an extremely high specular reflectance of up to 99.7%* over the visible portion (ranging between 380-760 nanometers (nm)) of the electromagnet spectrum, it ensures that very little light is lost as it travels through the optical tubing system.
Achieving a high specular reflectance is critical since even small differences in reflectance values can significantly impact light output. That’s because every time a ray of light is reflected, some amount of that light is either scattered or lost through absorption. The difference of just a few percentage points in specular reflectivity makes a huge difference in overall performance.
Contrary to total reflectance, specular reflectance is a key factor in determining an optical tube’s efficiency in transferring light, and manufacturers should provide specular reflectance data to document the true efficiency of their TDD systems.
*Specular reflectance greater than 99%, with wavelength-specific reflectances up to 99.7% for the visible spectrum
Used in both our LightTracker™ Reflector and our tubing, Spectralight® Infinity is a proprietary material that has a specular reflectivity of 99.7%*, the highest of any material used in tubular daylighting devices on the market today. As a result, less than 1% of the daylight captured is lost with each “bounce” of daylight down the tube. This becomes increasingly important when light levels are low, such as in the early morning or late afternoon, on overcast days, or during winter months. At these times, the reflected daylight may make hundreds of bounces down the tubing. Because Spectralight Infinity has such a high Light Transfer Efficiency (LTE), daylight can be transmitted over long distances with minimal light loss to provide consistent illumination, regardless of season or weather condition.
In other systems that use tubes with lower reflectivity, so much light is lost (some as high as 16% with each bounce!) that little usable light remains by the time it travels all the way down the tube.
In addition, Spectralight Infinity Tubing also has a high Color Temperature Maintenance (CTM), which means it delivers the true color of the daylight with no color shift. Other tubing materials are not only less effective at reflecting light but are not “spectrally-neutral,” meaning that they can shift the color of the light significantly.
The end result is that you get maximum light output with no significant color shift for the brightest, cleanest natural light possible.
*Specular reflectance greater than 99%, with wavelength-specific reflectances up to 99.7% for the visible spectrum
You can get day and night lighting in one unit with the revolutionary Solatube® Smart LED™ System. Uniting daylighting with LEDs, it can save you up to 94% in energy costs. Featuring proprietary SunSense™ Technology, the system monitors daylight levels and allows the LEDs to activate automatically only when needed. The optional Occupancy Sensor makes the system even more energy efficient by preventing the LEDs from turning on unless an underlit area is occupied.
For the Solatube Brighten Up® Series, you can also get day and night lighting using one of our light kit options that can be wired to a wall switch.
Compact Fluorescent Light Add-On Kit
Add a dedicated compact fluorescent fixture to use with the Solatube Daylighting System as a recessed light fixture at night. Accepts one 26-watt compact fluorescent lamp (GX24q-3 Base, 26W 4-pin). Meets California Title 24 bath light requirements. Two fixtures may be used with the Solatube Daylighting System 290 DS.
Universal Light Add-On Kit with Medium Screw-in Base
Add on a light fixture to use the Solatube Daylighting Device as a recessed light fixture at night. The Solatube Daylighitng System 160 DS Light Add-On Kit accepts (1) Compact Fluorescent Lamp, Medium Base – 23 Watt Maximum, Total Maximum Length 4 3/4 in (120 mm). The Solatube 290 DS Light Add-On Kit accepts two Compact Fluorescent Lamps, Medium Base – 23 Watt Maximum, Total Maximum Length 4 3/4 in (120 mm).
One full daylight cycle is recommended to fully charge the Solar Electric NightLight.
The warranty for the system (panels, housing and LEDs) is for five (5) years.The batteries are not included in the warranty.
Yes, but these components do NOT qualify for the 30% federal tax rebate. The Ventilation Add-On Kit, the Daylight Dimmer and the Light Add-On Kit can all be installed in the same Solatube Daylighting System.
All new Solar Electric NightLights shipped with rechargeable batteries with a partial charge and may last throughout the first night after being installed. One full daylight cycle is recommended to achieve a full charge.
Remove the Decorative Fixture or Diffuser by twisting counterclockwise. Remove natural effect lens or softening effect lens by pulling on plastic tab.Reach inside the tube and gently lift up on the Solar Electric NightLight assembly to remove from the mounting bracket. Remove existing rechargeable AA batteries. Replace with two (2) new AA NiMH 1500 mAh 1.2V rechargeable batteries. Insert batteries to the (+) and (-) markings inside the battery pack.Reinstall Solar Electric NightLight onto mounting bracket.Replace effect lens and Decorative Fixture/Diffuser.
*Recycle or dispose of worn-out batteries in accordance with local and national regulations.
The expected battery life is two years under normal duty cycle.
Because the Solatube Daylight Dimmer only blocks out 98% of daylight when closed, the Solar Electric NightLight will not trigger the Dusk to Dawn Daylight Sensor to turn on the LED emitters under normal daylight conditions.
However, in less than ideal conditions (overcast/dark, stormy conditions), if the Daylight Dimmer is closed, the Solar Electric NightLight may turn on during the day.
Yes, damage can occur if a non-rechargeable battery is used. Using a non-rechargeable battery could pose a fire risk, and should be avoided.
No. The 30% federal tax credit expired as of 12/31/25, but was only applicable to Solatube Daylighting Systems with the Integrated Solar Electric NightLights, plus the cost of the installation.
Color temperature Maintenance (CTM) is a measure of how well a system can deliver reflected light without a color shift. The specific measured L*a*b color model performance parameters associated with a reflective surface are used to determine the spectral consistency of light as it is transferred through a tubular system. A high CTM denotes a product that produces minimal color / spectral shift of the light, which makes it a highly desirable light source for interior illumination. The Spectralight® Infinity Tubing used in Solatube® Daylighting Systems has a high CTM, which allows it to deliver the brightest, purest daylighting without major shifts over the course of the day or changes in season.
A minimum of 12 1/2 in. (318 mm) between ceiling joists and a minimum of 12 in. (304 mm) of vertical clearance above the ceiling is required in order to use the Ventilation Add-On Kit. It is also important to note that service access is required to the fan motor assembly junction box.
Yes. The Solatube® Light and Ventilation Kits can be added to the Solatube Daylighting System 160 DS model to create a dynamic 3-in-1 fixture that includes daylighting, night lighting and venting functions in one ceiling location.
The Solatube® Ventilation Add-On Kit features an in-line fan motor assembly that is remotely mounted in the attic or plenum rather than on the ceiling of the room to be vented. This significantly reduces the noise level in the room below.
At this time, there are no sones (sound) level test standards available for this product due to the number of variables involved with its installation, such as:
However, it is generally accepted that remote-mounted venting is usually quieter than in-room venting.
The Solatube® Daylighting System 160 DS is available with an attractive optional Solatube Ventilation Add-On Kit. When the Solatube 160 DS is combined with a Ventilation Add-On Kit and a Solatube Light Add-On Kit, it becomes an attractive 3-in-1 ceiling fixture.
Recommended for residential use only.
A typical bathroom fan will move about 50 cubic feet of air per minute (CFM). The proprietary fan / motor in the Solatube® Ventilation Add-on Kit is rated at 110 CFM (3 cubic meters per minute), which means it is more than twice as effective at clearing air than a standard fan.
Yes. Optional Spectralight® Infinity 0-90 Degree Tubing creates up to 90-degree angles and allows the light to run horizontally. You can even achieve multiple 90-degree turns in the same tube run.
CAD drawings are available on the Technical Resources page of our manufacturer’s website.
Yes, but there are potential issues with this type of application. Due to the excess moisture present in the shower environment, condensation may occur. Since the accumulation of moisture is a natural occurrence, it is not covered under the manufacturer’s warranty. To minimize condensation, proper ventilation is crucial. In addition, using the Solatube® Natural Effect Lens is recommended to reduce the air exchange between the shower and the inside of the tubing.
For more information about our warranty, visit the Product Registration page in the Support section of our website.
Yes. We offer three different options, depending on the type of roof and Solatube® product you’re using.
Option one is a Metal Roof Kit that can be used in conjunction with our self-flashing systems on most standing seam metal roofs with seams that are less than 4 1/2 in. (114 mm) high. This is the most commonly used application for our Solatube Daylighting System 290 DS as well as our Solatube SolaMaster® Series 330 DS and 750 DS. This is the only option for our Solatube SkyVault® product for metal roofs of all types.
Option two is the curb cap used on a curb (made by others) where the curb is custom-fabricated to fit the metal roof profile. This is the most commonly used application for our 290 DS, 330 DS, 750 DS models, and the only option for our Solatube SkyVault® Series product for metal roofs of all types.
Option three is the Solatube Metal Roof Flashing, which is available exclusively for our Solatube SolaMaster Series. Featuring an innovative triple-seal Dry-Lock technique, it can be adapted to fit virtually any standing seam roof profile.
See our Production Selection Guide and Technical Resources pages for more details.
It’s always recommended that you contact your local Solatube daylighting expert for specific application details.
Yes, dim interiors are common with mobile homes because carports and patio covers often shade the windows. Solatube® Daylighting Systems overcome this issue by delivering light directly into the interior through the roof. Plus, installation is quick and easy because no structural modifications are required.
For residential applications
For Solatube® Daylighting Systems, the bottom tube comes pre-assembled from the factory with integrated fastening clamps in the ceiling ring. For Solatube Smart LED™ Systems, the fastening clamps are attached to the High-Performance Amplifier rather than the bottom tube. Once inserted into the ceiling opening, the bottom tubing telescopes into the top tubing. The integrated fastening clamps secure the ceiling ring into the ceiling.
If using AuroraGlo™ or QuadraFrost™ Decorative Fixtures, please see Solatube Decorative Fixtures installation instructions appendix for additional details.
For commercial applications
If using the Solatube Brighten Up® Series or Smart LED System, refer to the above information for either suspended or hard ceiling applications.
For the Solatube SolaMaster® Series, we offer a transition box in our Solatube SolaMaster Series 750 DS-C and 330 DS-C models. This allows for integration into a suspended, acoustical ceiling grid, replacing a typical 2 ft by 2 ft ceiling tile. The transition box also offers a trim lip so that it can be used in a hard ceiling.
For Solatube SolaMaster Series 750 DS-O and 330 DS-O models, our round open ceiling diffuser can be used in a hard or suspended ceiling. You may want to add an additional trim ring for cosmetics.
The Solatube SkyVault® Series is not recommended for drop ceiling applications.
All Solatube® products were designed with retrofit applications in mind. However, when dealing with a new roof installation or a re-roofing project, it’s recommended to coordinate with the roofer.
For residential applications
For typical shingle roofs, it is best to install after the new roof is in place. However, the Solatube Daylighting System can easily be installed at the same time the roof is going on in most cases.
When installing a Solatube Daylighting System on a tile roof, installation is usually done after the roof is completed. On hot mop applications, installation can be done during or after.
For commercial applications
For new construction or re-roofing projects, our Solatube daylighting experts often coordinate the installation of a Solatube Daylighting System with a professional roofer to ensure flashings or curbs are properly installed. This helps to maintain the roof warranty, if applicable. Since they are factory-trained on all Solatube products and experienced with installing on a wide variety of roof types, Solatube daylighting experts can provide valuable information on how to ensure a successful outcome.
For residential applications
Solatube® Daylighting Systems feature factory-assembled parts for faster, easier, more professional-looking installations. With this in mind, installing a Solatube Daylighting System on a shingle asphalt roof usually takes two hours or less. Other roof types (e.g., slate, tile, metal, concrete) may take slightly longer due to the roof material.
For commercial applications
Installation times can vary greatly depending on job site conditions, roof type, roof mount options, model and product configuration, and so on. Contact your Solatube daylighting expert for more information.
A Solatube® Daylighting System works well on the north side of a roof. However, it performs even better when exposed to direct sunlight. For the best results, position the system where it will receive the most direct south-facing sunlight possible. To catch more direct rays, a turret extension can also be added to raise the dome height above the roof peak if on the north side of the roof.
The reverse is true in the southern hemisphere. There, a north-facing position is ideal.
Understanding the cause (e.g., poor ventilation) is the first step toward preventing condensation. Listed below are a number of steps that can be taken to reduce the potential for moisture buildup.
1. Always make sure round holes are cut in the roof deck, whether using the self-flashing or the curb-mounted cap. Square holes cut in the roof deck will let too much warm, moist air into the flashing or curb cavity.
2. Install a flashing insulator or curb insulator. These reduce the amount of warm air from the building’s interior that contacts the cold, metal interior of the flashing. On a curb-mounted unit, attach the curb insulator to the interior base of the curb, centering it over the round hole in the roof deck.
3. For self-flashing units, pack insulation material into the space between the flashing and the tubing to reduce the volume of warm, interior air that contacts the cold metal of the flashing. With curb-mounted units, push insulation into the curb cavity. Filling the curb cavity’s air space will equalize the temperature and reduce the occurrence of condensation. The Solatube® Curb Cap Insulation Kit is also recommended and provides R-6 rigid insulation at the underside of the curb cap. For the Solatube SkyVault® Series, rigid insulation is pre-installed in the roof assembly.
4. If a curb or flashing insulator is not used, another option is to seal the penetration where the tubing comes through the roof deck with an expanding foam sealant, insulation, or other similar product. This will reduce the chances of warm, moist air making contact with the interior of the flashing or curb cavity.
5. Ensure the dome is correctly attached to the flashing or curb cap, including dome seals in certain models. Solatube Daylighting Systems are designed to allow some air transfer from the interior of the system to the exterior. This allows moist air to vent, while enabling any droplets of water that may form on the dome to escape
6. In extreme cold climates, wrap the tubing in insulation. For best results, use foil-faced insulation. Be sure to insulate the entire tube run from the roof deck to the ceiling plane, leaving no gaps in the insulation. You can also use this method in extremely moist environments in an open ceiling application.
7. If a vapor barrier is present when penetrating the roof deck, ensure that it is maintained and sealed off once the Solatube Daylighting System has been installed.
For more details on how to address condensation, please contact your Solatube daylighting expert.
The tubing of a Solatube® Daylighting System is not designed for exposed exterior applications. As long as the exterior tube runs are encased for added protection, however, this type of application is possible. To accommodate multiple 90-degree turns, angle adapters are available that provide maximum flexibility while resulting in minimal light loss. Also, keep in mind that the roof components must be supported if they reside on the side of the structure rather than the roof.
Note: this type of application may void the warranty. Consult your Solatube daylighting expert for more information.
Solatube® Daylighting Systems can be installed on practically any roof type. We offer numerous roof mount options for both self-mounted and curb-mounted applications. For details, see our Product Selection Guides for residential and commercial applications.
For residential applications
While Solatube® Daylighting Systems and Solar Star® Attic Fans are engineered for easy installation, you’ll get the best results when you hire a professional who has been factory-trained and certified to install our products. When arranging installation, we recommend you hire a Solatube Premier Dealer who is licensed, bonded and factory-trained on Solatube products to ensure a proper install and protection from unforeseen circumstances.
A general contractor, roofer or local building material supplier may also be able to assist you.
As a homeowner, we recommend installing it yourself only if you have the proper tools and training, and are comfortable making a roof penetration.
For commercial applications
For commercial applications, we recommend a Solatube International Commercial Distributor who has been factory-trained on all Solatube products. They can offer design assistance and/or installation services / training. Coordination with a general contractor or roofer may be required depending on the scope of the project.
Solatube® Daylighting Systems feature unique telescoping tubes that can be easily installed even when access to the attic or plenum is limited or there is no space between the ceiling and roof at all. We can also install most products in an open ceiling application where no ceiling exists and the underside of the roof deck is exposed.
One exception to this is the Solatube Smart LED™ System, which requires a minimum height of 16 in. (406 mm) between the base of the ceiling and the roof line. With the Solatube SolaMaster® Series 330 DS-C and 750 DS-C units, the transition box requires approximately a 12 in. (305 mm) depth between the ceiling and the roof.
We recommend you consult your local Solatube daylighting expert for specific details.
The better question is where can’t they be installed? Solatube® Daylighting Systems have been installed in virtually every type of residential and commercial application. See our residential and commercial showcases for examples.
The Solatube® International, Inc. roof components have been designed for installation at the roof level, not on a vertical wall. By installing the roof components on a vertical wall, the product warranty would be voided. However, installations of this type have been done successfully. We recommend a warranty from the installer to cover this type of application.
An application where the roof components are mounted on the roof and the tubing makes a 90 degree turn to allow the diffuser or Decorative Fixture to be mounted on an interior wall are within the bounds of the warranty.
For more information, please contact your local Solatube daylighting expert.
To achieve optimal light output in spaces that require long tube runs, we recommend using tube lengths no longer than those listed below:
For tube runs exceeding 15 ft in length or running horizontally, we recommend the addition of suspension wires for support.
In short tube runs, there is no minimum length for the Solatube Brighten Up Series. The tubing may simply need to be modified to fit the space. This can be done easily by telescoping or cutting the tubing to the desired length. With the Smart LED System, the minimum length is 16 in. to accommodate the Amplifier. For SolaMaster 330 DS-C or 750 DS-C, a minimum depth of 12 in. is required to accommodate the transition box. For most open ceiling applications, the tube can be cut or telescoped to make the diffuser flush with the underside of the roof deck or to lower the diffuser to the desired height.
For Solatube SkyVault M74 DS applications, the Tab-Lock Connection System dictates that the tubes are set to designated lengths. Curb height can be manipulated to affect diffuser position.
Keep in mind that, for a short tube run, creating tube angles may not be possible.
For Residential applications
Your Solatube® diffuser or Decorative Fixture is quite easy to remove and clean. Please note that Solatube Daylighting Systems manufactured before 2000 have twist-lock diffusers for the 10 in. (250 mm) and 14 in. (350 mm) models. For these older units, the diffuser twists off counterclockwise when looking up at the diffuser. If you have a unit that was manufactured between 2000 – 2007, simply pry down one edge of the white trim ring using something flat like a butter knife. Continue to work your way around the ring until you have a 1/4 in. (7mm) or so gap all the way around. Then simply grab onto the edges and pull straight down. The diffuser lens can be cleaned with soap and water. To re-install the diffuser, position the four zip ties into the four holes on the ceiling ring and push up until the diffuser is flush with the ceiling.
If you have a unit that was manufactured between 2007 – 2010, simply pull the diffuser straight down.
If you have a diffuser or Decorative Fixture that was purchased after September 2010, you’ll need to twist off the diffuser counterclockwise.
For the QuadraFrost™ and AuroraGlo™ Decorative Fixtures, simply rotate the screws located on the sides of the fixture counterclockwise to release. Make sure to support the underside of the fixture when releasing it from the ceiling.
For Commercial applications
For Solatube BrightenUp® Series or Solatube Smart LED™ Systems, see instructions above for removing a diffuser or Decorative Fixture.
For the SolaMaster® 330 DS-C and 750 DS-C, remove the diffuser by releasing the tabs on the diffuser frame from the transition box. For the Solatube SolaMaster Series 330 DS-O and 750 DS-O, find the four raised lines on the plastic trim of the diffuser. This indicates where the tube notches are that hold the diffuser in place. Depress above the raised lines to disengage the diffuser from the notches.
For the Solatube SkyVault® Series, first remove the tube belt above the diffuser. Next, lift and untwist the diffuser to unlock it from the Tab-Lock Connection System.
Important note: When removing any diffuser, keep all seals in place to insure proper reassembly. See installation instructions for reattaching diffuser in the Technical Resources section of our website.
Most Solatube® Daylighting Systems feature tubing with a specially designed notching system that allows one tube to telescope into the next, so they rarely have to be cut to length. High-quality foil tape is used to seal all tubing seams. This keeps bugs and dust from entering the system, ensuring maintenance-free operation. Tube sections are further reinforced by fastening them with provided self-tapping screws for structural integrity.
One exception is the Solatube SkyVault® Series, which features a patented Tab-Lock Connection System that guarantees proper assembly. Additionally, Tube Belts ensure structural integrity by cinching the tube connection to prevent gaps and provide a tapeless, self-sealing joint. This combination of features simplifies installation and reduces labor costs.
The domes used with most Solatube® Daylighting Systems are injection-molded with impact modified acrylic. The high quality and durability of the material combined with the molding process produces a dome that creates a benchmark for the industry. For markets in High Velocity Hurricane Zones, the optional Shock Inner Dome is available to meet building codes. This material is required to pass stringent missile impact tests for hurricane threat areas. In the Solatube SolaMaster® Series, we also offer a military-grade dome for applications that require anti-terrorism blast testing.
The Solatube SkyVault® Series dome, intended for commercial use, is made of high-impact, vacuum-formed polycarbonate that is 43 times stronger than acrylic. A different material is used with this model due to the dome’s massive 29 in. (74 cm) size. An acrylic dome with that diameter would be too flexible and not strong enough to withstand high impact conditions. This model is also available with a dual-glaze dome assembly that includes an outer and an inner dome for added durability.
Solatube® products are manufactured using the highest quality materials, so they are extremely durable and designed to last. All Solatube Daylighting System components (excluding electrical components) are covered by 10-year warranty. A multitude of Solatube products have been in operation for more than 20 years and continue to perform exceptionally.
We have specific product configurations that can meet High Velocity Hurricane Zone requirements as well as OSHA fall protection standards and military anti-terrorism blast requirements.
If the tubes have been left in the sun or exposed to heat, the protective lining may adhere to the tubing and become difficult to remove. If this occurs, the tubing will likely need to be replaced. For best results, un-installed tubing should be kept in the packaging until it is installed. Also, it should not be stored in areas with direct sunlight or excessive heat for long periods of time.
Solatube® Daylighting Systems vary in price based on a number of factors, including:
Under the product warranty, Solatube® Daylighting System components are covered for 10 years, most electrical components for 5 years, and Solatube Smart LED™ electrical components for 3 years. For full warranty details, click here.
Yes, Solatube® Daylighting Systems work especially well in hot climates. All of our Daylighting Systems feature Spectralight® Infinity Tubing. This transmits the visible spectrum of light (400 to 760 nanometers), but provides significant blockage of infrared wavelengths greater than 900 nm, which is the main culprit in solar heat gain.
Additionally, the dome ring in the Solatube 160 DS/ISn and Solatube 290 DS/ISn acts as a thermal break between the flashing and tubing to prevent external heat from entering an interior space.
Also, the Raybender® 3000 Technology featured in many of our products helps to reject overwhelming light and heat when the sun’s rays are most intense.
These technologies allow Solatube Daylighting Systems to provide the highest light output performance with minimal thermal impact.
Yes, all Solatube® Daylighting Systems are designed with features that prevent water from entering the system. The round shape of the domes themselves prevent water from collecting on the surface.
In addition, the circular and seamless, one-piece design of the self-flashing systems allows rain runoff to naturally flow past the daylighting system. As a result, the flashing has no weak points that could separate and allow water to enter. However, an optional turret extension may be added to raise the dome above the roof deck where required.
For curb-mounted applications, the height of the curb would raise the dome sufficiently to avoid any rain runoff. The curb itself (made by others) would typically incorporate a water diverter (cricket) for sloped roof applications.
Solatube® Daylighting Systems maximize the amount of daylight available for lighting your interior, regardless of sky conditions. Our proprietary Raybender® 3000 and LightTracker™ Technologies in our domes combined with our Spectralight® Infinity Tubing transfer the maximum amount of daylight from the rooftop down into the interior with minimal light loss, even on cloudy days. Keep in mind your light output is always relative to your light input. There will be a noticeable difference in light intensity between a clear, sunny day and a heavily overcast day. Our diffusers and Decorative Fixtures keep a consistent diffusion pattern, regardless of light intensity.
Our products feature dome optics that help collect low-angle sunlight, which is extremely important in northern latitudes. As a result, Solatube® Daylighting Systems have performed successfully in cold weather climates like the Northern U.S.A., Canada, and Northern Europe for more than 20 years.
Solatube skylights are designed to be leak-proof. Their low-profile, sealed dome design and seamless flashing options are engineered for all major roof types, including tile, metal, and shingle. Many competitor skylights rely on traditional seals that may degrade over time and are more prone to leaks.
The Solatube® Daylighting System captures ambient light so well that you can actually see a nice glow from your fixture on full-moon nights. If you prefer, you always have the option to add a Solatube Daylight Dimmer to block out unwanted light.
When just the roof is covered with snow, it may actually increase light output as the white snow makes the roof more reflective. When the dome itself is covered with snow, light output will be reduced but the dome will continue to perform. Tests have indicated that all Solatube® Daylighting System models can resist positive snow loads up to 150 pounds per square foot. For more information and to review the CCRR test report, click here.
Condensation in homes or buildings is mainly a winter problem. It occurs most frequently in areas where warm, moist air is generated and allowed to penetrate to colder parts of the building. A number of activities can produce moisture, including cooking, bathing, washing dishes and/or clothes, heating, and humidifying. Condensation may be more severe in buildings with inadequate ventilation.
In Solatube® Daylighting Systems, condensation can occur when warm, moist air enters the tubing or the space between the flashing or curb cavity. If this happens, it’s likely that moisture is also present around or on other building elements, such as windows, doors and skylights.
While condensation cannot be eliminated entirely, Solatube International has made design changes to its daylighting systems over the years to reduce its occurrence. The current systems are designed to allow warm, moist air to escape at the dome level while preventing air infiltration in the tube run and at the diffuser level. Modifying your system with a Dome Upgrade Kit, Flashing / Curb Insulator, Effect Lenses, Severe Climate Glazing, or Curb Cap Insulation Kit may also help, but your local Solatube International, Inc. expert is best-suited to determine if these improvements or other changes will help minimize condensation in your Solatube Daylighting System.
Due to the numerous contributing factors to condensation in a home or building, Solatube International, like most window and skylight companies, does not cover it under the manufacturer’s warranty. As such, please be aware that there may be a charge for the service call and/or additional parts needed to upgrade your system.
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